Marcia Waters - Master of Wine

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Marcia Waters

A more mature couple

August 11th 2016

I had supper with an interesting more mature couple the other day. I was perhaps a little prejudice thinking they might not had much to say for themselves but I learnt not to underestimate the advantage of a patina of character a few extra years can bring.
The first was a 2011 Pouilly Fume from Vincent Vatan that had somehow got forgotten in the my wine rack for 4 years. Yes it had lost its just-mown-lawn fresh aromas, but it had picked up a high summer, sunny, dried grass character. This is still essentially a dry Sauvignon Blanc but it had rounded out with an oily texture more akin to good Semillon. This had elegance, presence and a
lot to contribute to the starter of king prawns with its accumulated experience.
The second guest was Gallo Family Coastal Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2003. I picked this up from the bin end section of my local Co-Op and it was so grateful to be recognised that it burst out fruitily as soon as the cork came out. A nice,soft, crumbly dried leaf character of sensible, mature Cabernet soon took over with enough black currant as its recognisable leitmotif. It chatted happily with barbecue sirloin steak despite being a little bogged down by a sediment of memories. Then the effort was all to much and it fell asleep at the table.
But I'm going to keep an eye out for these more mature surprises as a welcome change from boisterous youthful wines.

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